Jacket Fitted, narrow shoulders, single-breasted, three button fastening, narrow cuff less sleaves, lapels, patch and flap pockets, small collars, narrow lapels, wool cloths, linen and cotton.
Waistcoat Fitted, single-breasted, collarless, high fastening, wool cloths, to match jackets, sometimes not worn.
Trousers Straight, narrow to hems, turn-ups, centre creases, wool cloths.
Shirt Stiff stand collar and cuffs, plain fronts, plain linen, later striped  cotton with attached collars.
Colour Dark colours as before, some lighter: cream, brown, grey.
Accessories Bowlers hats, boaters, homburgs, caps, bow ties, and neck ties, leather and cotton gloves, elastic sided boots, lace up  shoes, walking sticks.






1909 Hats were large with anything that was associated with fruit, flowers or feathers used to decorate them. Frequently worn with a scarf over the top of them, to keep them on in windy conditions.


1890 - 1910: Gored Skirt Era

Skirts: gored panels, with front and sides smooth across the hips. All fullness held at the CB (exception of soft materials in the 1900s where they are gathered all around).

In silhouette, the skirt was narrow in 1890, 1900 and 1910, but wide in 1895 and 1905.

In 1890s, skirt interlinings are heavy and stiff. In 1900s, the linings are lighter and separate from the main skirt.


Bodices: many seams and all boned through the 1890s. Some linings were separate, but they were complex with seams etc. while the outer fabric could be cut in one piece. The outer fabric was tucked or gathered to give it shape. Tailored garments would be cut with the lining, all seams showing. In 1900s the front bodice was pouched so that is hung over the waist. In 1890s the armholes were cut in deep, normal in the 1900s.

Wing like collar effects in the ‘90s and round yokes in 1900s. From 1905 the look becomes more vertical. High waists around 1907 to 1910. Bodices can fasten at the front with hooks and eyes, often only on the lining and concealed by the outer fabric. Buttons, often quite large in the 1890s and smaller in the 1900s. Most evening bodices fasten at the back. Snaps, or press studs, were invented in the 1890s but were not in common usage until the 1900s

Sleeves: 1890: tight with some vertical height at top. 1891-1892 they become "watermelon" shaped. 1893-1896 they become "basketball" shaped and very large. Sleeve collapses from 1897-1899, often with small puff at the head. Tight in 1900, with ruffle at the wrist. 1901-1903, lower sleeve grows in size. 1904, fullness on upper arm.

1904 - 1908, multi layers. 1907 -1910, sleeve becomes tight again.

Sleeves are lined throughout. Evening sleeves often have drapery ruffle at the elbow in the 1900s, and can be quite small in the 1890s.

Deborah V. McKeown 1997



Where marked (JP) the text is by John Peacock from his book Men's Fashion: The Complete Sourcebook, 1996 Thames & Hudson Ltd, London. Reproduced by kind permission of Thames & Hudson Ltd, London.

Where marked * Picture and notes are based on notes from Dover Publications.